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The real history of the Arancina from Palermo: from the Arabs to the kitchens of Palazzo Abatellis

Arancina was born in Sicily between the fourth and eleventh century. The origin of this dish, like all those based on rice in southern Italy, is to be placed during the Arab domination. The Arabs used to make a little bit of rice with saffron in the palm of their hands, and then they would season it with lamb.

As noted by Giambonino from Cremona in the thirteenth century, the Arabs tended to call their meatballs with the name of a fruit that was somewhat similar, at least in form. Here are the arancine, obviously inspired by the fruit of which the island was and is rich.

The Sicilian arancina, as we know it now, appeared very late in the “official” recipes, more or less in the nineteenth century and that is why some doubt a real connection with Arabic cuisine.

In the Sicilian-Italian dictionary of Giuseppe Biundi of 1857, appears the term “arancinu”, defined as “sweet rice vivanda made in the shape of a watermelon”. The change to salty is documented for the first time in the new Sicilian-Italian vocabulary of Antonino Trina from 1868. And it is probably to this variant that the “composite rice croquettes” of Artusi are inspired, but they do not yet provide for the presence of either meat or tomato, probably an introduction of a little later.

In agreement with the Arab origin is, instead, the historian from Palermo Gaetano Basile who told his studies in his book “Joies e misteri dello street food Palermo” published by Flaccovio. “The discovery – says Basile – I made it 35 years ago in a Bedouin tent, in Tunisia, when they offered me to eat rice with meat and spices. They explained to me that then the rice that is left over is fried and brought to work. In short, an ante litteram arancina”.

The arancina as we know it, instead, continues Gaetano Basile “appears in ‘700 at Palazzo Abatellis, then Dominican convent in the historic center of Palermo. It was the ‘flat of the convent’, or the specialty of the house. Then came Garibaldi, the cheap tomato and the ragout: for this I am convinced that the original arancina will always ‘follow'”.

On the naming front and the eternal division between the arancina of Palermo and the arancino of Catania, the historian makes it a question of semiology: “We have 9 dialects and two spoken and in Sicily the orange is called orange: simply in dialect Sicilian is said arancinu while in Palermo it becomes arancina”.

Before you find out where to eat the best arancini in Palermo, you should learn how to call it. If you call it the right way in the right city you will make a lot of friends!

It’s Arancina (singular) and Arancine (plural) in the north-west of Sicily. Sicilians from the provinces of Palermo and Trapani use the feminine noun and you better learn this fast! The shape is rounded like an orange.

What is an Arancina or an Arancino?

It’s a rice ball stuffed with veal meat, breaded and deep fried.  In the west of Sicily you will find inside a dried ragù sauce, peas, carrot and onion. In the east of Sicily the Arancini are filled with shredded meat, tomato and mozzarella cheese.

Where to find the best arancini in Palermo:

BAR VABRES

For three generations, Bar Vabres has perpetuated the ritual of Sicilian tradition. The address is among the favourites of the people of Palermo. A reputation earned and consolidated that puts the arancina on the podium.

BAR ITALICO

Located on the port promenade of the city, about 15 minutes’ walk from the train station. The Arancina at Bar Italico is mouthwatering. Overfilled and well cooked, the breading outside is thin but crunchy, and most importantly, the rice is yellow as tradition dictates.

BAR TOURING

The legendary bomb arancini. This place is an institution for arancina lovers in Palermo. Their legendary “arancina bomba” has stuffed Palermitan bellies for ages. It’s huge!

DA MIMI’ di Guglielmo Damiano

The authentic recipe! 5 minutes’ walk from the Cathedral of Palermo, this friggitoria serves without any doubts one of the best arancini in Palermo. Totally unknown by tourists and still not very popular among all Palermitans, Luciano and his mum make authentic miracles in the kitchen. This is also the only place in town where you will find the original arancina recipe.

Bar Marocco (in front of the cathedral)

The arancina a’bburro of Bar Marocco is probably the best arancini that you can find around the touristy area of the city center. The phone wire of the mozzarella makes you wanna call Mum to say “Mum, I am happy”. Take a sit in front of the Cathedral to enjoy the beautiful architecture and let your taste buds make love with the tasty rice!

Ke Palle (for vegetarians)

In the past 10 years many shops specialized in arancini opened up downtown giving vegetarians the chance to savor this delicious Sicilian street food. Honestly speaking, we would not have an arancina in any of these places except one: Ke Palle. Located 5 minutes away from the opera house Teatro Massimo, Ke Palle brought to the market a wide variety of arancine. You can get arancine with fish, vegs, pistachio and many more.