Practical tips for driving in Italy without losing your zen! What to expect on Italian road, how to avoid fines, what to look for when renting a car in Italy.
Driving in Italy worries many.
Several parts of Italy are best visited by car however, stories of temperamental drivers, small streets and apparently random fines are popular among visitors so it is more than understandable why you may be a little bit wary about getting behind the wheel on Italian roads.
But how dangerous is it to drive in Italy? Is it safe to rend a car in Italy and go on a road trip or are the stories about crazy Italian drivers true?
I am Italian and today, I am going to share all I believe you need to know before hitting the road in Italy.
Spoiler: while driving in Italy is very different than driving in, let’s say, the US, it is definitely doable. Get these tips first though!
Before we dive into how to drive in Italy, let’s look at how necessary or unnecessary it is.
In general, you will not need to drive in Italy if you want to stick to the main cities, visit Cinque Terre and the Amalfi Coast.
Rome, Venice, Florence and Milan are all well connected with high-speed trains and an extensive network of local trains will allow you to visit areas in their vicinity including Cinque Terre, Verona, parts of Lake Garda, Lake Como.
To visit the Amalfi Coast you can rely on a combination of train and ferry (in summer) and train and bus (in winter).
Other parts of Italy such as the Dolomites, Val d’Orcia (Tuscany) the south of Italy and the islands do require the car.
What are Italian roads like?
In Italy you will find yourself driving on roads falling into the following categories:
Autostrade – Autostrade are the Italian highways/motorways and they are fee paying. As you access them, you find a tall booth dispensing ticket with your point of entry (automated machine) and, when exiting at your destiantion, you will use the machine provided to pay the relevant fees.
Usually, both cards and cash are accepted and there are lanes for ‘Telepass’ (electronic tall collection system). Telepass is usually not included in car rental contracts so do not use the reserved lanes assuming you have it: unless you are told specifically you do, you do not!
Driving on autostrade is pretty straightforward. Usually much smaller than American Freeways, Italian autostrade usually have 2, 3 o 4 lanes and are open to cars, vans and trucks (no mopeds and slow vehicles).
The speed limit on Italian autostrade is 120Km/h
Strade Statali is the name of Italy’s national roads. Roads falling into this category come in all shapes and sizes and vary from large and straight roads to bendy and narrows ones. The speed limit on national roads is 90Km/h however, different speed limits may apply in case of bends and specific geographic/ weather conditions – always check local signage.
Strade privinciali are Italy’s local roads and go from large, well-kept roads to country lanes.
You do not usually find yourself driving off-road in Italy however, you may find yourself on dust roads if going to country restaurants or if you are staying in agriturismo.
In these cases, you do not usually need special vehicles, just be prepared to gt the car a little dusty!
The speed limits on smaller roads is 50Km/h-70Km/h depending on the road in question – check local signage.
Driving in Italian cities
Driving in Italian cities requires a paragraph of its own as this is where things often get complicated!
Italian cities are not car-friendly and my general advice is: one you are in a town to city, ditch the car and walk instead!
The reason why I recommend you don’t drive in Italian cities are:
Large cities are terribly trafficked. I am from Rome and I can tell you from experience if you find yourself on the ring road at the wrong time, you can easily spend hours where without moving an inch.
Parking in large cities is very hard to find and, in many cities, absolutely wild, with cars left pretty much anywhere at any time, including on pavements (do not copy the locals, fines are steep and yes, they will reach you back home too!)
Italian towns big and small have inner-city areas that are closed to non-resident traffic. These are called ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato) and in theory, they are well indicated with signs telling you what areas are off-limits. In practice, this is not always the case.
In many cases, you only see the signs for ZTL if you know you have to look for them: do not expect barriers or very visible marking between the car-free area and the rest of the town.
When you hear horror stories of people getting a huge fine from Italy once they are back home, this is usually where the fine originated from! Accidentally driving into a poorly signaled ZTL and yes, as bad as the signage may have been, the fine is due.
How are Italian drivers? Are they as bad as they say?
Italian drivers get often described as ‘lawless’ or ‘crazy’ however, I find the best way to describe is: impatient.
Compared with many other countries, you will find Italians very ready to use the car horn and do whatever it takes to pass you if you commit the unforgivable sin of taking your time to understand what way to go.
The best way to deal with us is: ignore us. Stay safe, take your time and don’t mind us: rules of the road do apply in Italy and Italian drivers are on average very very good: Italy is not a crazy car-filled far west, even if the beeping sometimes makes it feel that way!
Tips for driving in Italy: what you can do to stay safe and sane
When getting ready to drive in Italy, make sure you:
- Have the right documents
- The documents needed to drive in Italy depend on the country you are from. Check with your local embassy/consulate if you need an international license and, if entering Italy with your own car, what type of insurance documents may be needed.
You can find an example of what is needed if you are a US driver here
Whether you are driving your own car or a rental, make sure you have all the car documents handy in the glove compartment: in case of a check, you will be asked for ‘patente’ (driving licence), ‘libretto’ (car documents) and/or car rental docs.
Get the right car
The is no right or wrong car for Italy so what I mean by ‘right’ is: if you are used to automatic cars, make sure you rent one.
Most cars in Italy are manual; however, automatic cars and more and more common and usually available for rental but make sure you specify it when booking.
Get a car seat for the kids
If visiting Italy with kids, make sure you get a car seat for them, read facing for babies and young kids and a booster seat once height/age allows.
Check, double-check and triple check the age appropriateness of the seat if getting it via your car rental agency as often you are offered booster seats even after agreeing on a baby capsule.
If you can, I highly recommend you bring your own car seat so you can be sure of its quality and size.
Watch out for ZTL
I have already warned you about the sneaky ZTLs but it is worth repeating. Italian towns and cities have limited access city centers and it is safe to assume you cannot drive in there, sign or no sign.
When approaching a new town, keep an eye out for signs indicating parking (big Ps on blue or white background): they usually become more and more frequent as you approach the ztl – they are a good way to know when you are getting close!
Have cash for parking
Bigger parking lots accept cards however, pay and display machines and smaller lots do not. Always keep some coins handy.
In some localities, you have scratch and display parking tickets that you buy at the local tabaccaio or newsagents. If you are staying in accommodation inside a town center, tell them you have a car as they may be able to give you a pass to enter the ZTL (or recommend where to park).
Do not leave valuables in the car
It is very tempting to leave bags and coats in the car however, I highly recommend you do not do this in Italy. If you need to leave your car full of luggage, make sure you have everything hidden in the trunk and back into your parking space so you know the trunk cannot be accessed.
In most cases, this will mean you are being overly cautious (my Irish husband always thinks I am mad when I do so) however, it is a simple precaution that can save you lots of time, money and headaches.
React quickly to green lights
You know the Italian drivers’ temperament I mentioned above?
A quick way to have it flare up is to be slow at the light when it turns green. In most of Italy, you will get angry beeps if you are less than ready when the light changes: get in gear and ready to go in time to avoid being shouted at!
Pick the right gas
Cars in Italy use petrol ‘senza piombo’ (unleaded petrol) or diesel. Pumps clearly mark which is which but, if you are from the US, you may need to pay extra attention as the colors tend to be different than back in the States.
This is something I noticed the other way round when we were in the US and I found it rather confusing so I feel it makes sense to let you know, should you find the same while in Italy!
Do not drink and drive
This probably goes without saying but: do not drink and drive. If you want to go out for dinner and have a glass of wine or if you are going wine tasting, make sure you get a designated driver, private driver or organized transport.