Colosseo
History of the Colosseum
Flavian emperor Vespasian had this amphitheater that could accommodate 65,000 spectators built in the year 72 CE. Construction of the Colosseum took eight years and was financed with plunder taken from Jerusalem. The Colosseum, also called the Amphitheatrum Flavium, was opened by emperor Titus with games and festivities that lasted 100 days and cost the lives of 5,000 animals. Emperor Domitian, Titus’ successor, later expanded the amphitheater with an extra storey and a number of spaces underneath the Colosseum. This made the Colosseum of Rome the largest amphitheater in Roman history, and it is considered one of the seven wonders of the world.
Rome’s amphitheatre
The main purpose of the Colosseum in Rome was to entertain the people – and thereby increase the popularity of the emperor – with gladiator battles, sometimes including wild animals, such as elephants and tigers. It was common for animal fights to be held in the mornings by the ‘bestiarii’. During intermissions, convicted criminals were often thrown to the wild animals. Gladiator battles were held in the afternoons. As Christianity become more important, the barbaric games were finally forbidden by emperor Honorius in 404 CE. The public lynching of a monk who tried to end a fight between two gladiators was the final straw. Until the year 523, only shows with wild animals were held there.
The arena of the amphitheater in Rome
During the middle ages, various earthquakes destroyed much of the Colosseum. In later centuries the ruins were stripped by popes and others to reuse the stones as building material for churches and palaces. An end was put to this plundering under Pope Benedict XIV in 1749. He considered the Colosseum Rome to be holy ground because of its important history; the blood of many Christian martyrs has been spilled there.
Facts ‘Il Colosseo’
The amphitheater could be accessed via 80 entrance arches, and the name ‘Colosseum’ (or Coliseum) was based on the colossal statue of Emperor Nero (Colossus of Nero) that stood next to the amphitheater in those days. The total circumference of the amphitheater is 527 meters, and it reaches a maximum height of 48.50 meters. For building materials they used limestone (1st row of arches), lighter bricks (2nd and 3rd row of arches) and concrete. The outside was finished with travertine from the hills near Tivoli. Marble was used for the seats and to clad the inner walls. The actual arena where the battles took place measured 76 by 44 meters and was surrounded by a four-meter wall. It is estimated that 300,000 to 500,000 people lost their lives in the Colosseum arena!
The stands of the amphitheater were divided into four galleries. The seats closest to the arena were reserved for the senators, magistrates, and other important people. The emperor even had his own box with a private entrance. The second and third gallery were for male spectators, with the higher classes sitting closer to the arena. The upper, fourth gallery was for the wives of senators and knights. In those days, the Colosseum could be covered with a large, cloth awning, the so-called Velarium. According to legend, it took a thousand sailors to tighten the awning across 240 masts.
During the reign of emperor Domitian, the Colosseum’s expansions included a hypogeum. This was an underground labyrinth with several trapdoors and lifts, for instance to carry large animals up into the arena. It also contained the gladiators’ barracks, wild animal cages and there was an underground passageway to the largest gladiator school in Rome.
Trevi Fountain
The ‘Fontana di Trevi’, or the Trevi Fountain is perhaps the most famous fountain in the world and definitely in Rome. The baroque fountain on the Piazza di Trevi square was initially designed by Bernini for Pope Clemens XII. However, it was not built until 50 years later after a (less expensive) redesign by the architect Nicola Salvi. Construction lasted from 1732 to 1762. The fountain’s fame is in part the result of the many films that featured the Trevi Fountain, including La Dolce Vita, Angels and Demons, The Lizzie McGuire Movie and Roman Holiday.
The almost 30-meter high Trevi Fountain was built against the back of the Palazzo Poli building. In the centre underneath the arch stands the statue of the nautical god Neptune, being pulled to the sea on his shell-shaped chariot pulled by two winged horses and tritons (young gods of the sea). One of the horses is calm and obedient, the other is boisterous. They symbolize the changing tides of the sea. The two statues in the niches (made by Filippo della Valle) next to Neptune represent Abundance to the left and Health to the right. The name ‘La Fontana di Trevi’ is derived from tre via, or three roads. Three roads used to come together at the site of the fountain.
Coins into the fountain of Rome
It is tradition during your citytrip Rome to throw a coin into the fountain – keep your eyes closed and throw the coin into the water over your left shoulder using your right hand. According to legend, the person who throws the coin will one day return to Rome. Did you throw two coins into the fountain? You will find your love in Rome. Prefer to get married (or divorced)? Throw three coins into the fountain. Every week, the municipality of Rome cleans the fountain and donates a large portion of the proceeds (1.4 million annually) to a charity that helps poor families.
Pantheon
The Roman Pantheon
The Pantheon is one of the most recognisable Roman buildings in Rome’s city centre. Construction of the Pantheon Rome started in 27 BCE on the order of Marcus Agrippa. It is one of the few buildings from ancient Rome that has stayed completely intact. The current temple and characteristic round dome were not built until the 2nd century, under emperor Hadrian, after Agrippa’s building was damaged by a large fire in 80 CE and again in 110 when it was struck by lightning. The façade shows the following text in bronze, ‘M.AGRIPPA.L.F.COS.TERTIUM.FECIT’. It means, ‘Marcus Agrippa, son of Lucius, third-time consul, has built this’. Interestingly, this text was added during the rule of emperor Hadrian.
Pantheon RomeThe oculus of the Pantheon
It is remarkable that people still do not know what the Pantheon building’s original purpose was. The name Pantheon comes from Greek and means ‘devoted to all gods’. The Roman Pantheon was not used as a church until 608, when emperor Phocas gave the building to pope Boniface IV. The church was named ‘Santa Maria ad Martyres’. Over time, more and more altars and grave monuments were added, such as the grave of various Italian kings and the famous painter Raphael. These tombs can be found in the seven niches surrounding the central space.
The oculus of the Pantheon
The opening in the dome has a diameter of 8.7 metres and lets in light in a special way (as well as rain at times). In addition to being a source of light, this ‘oculus’ was a deliberate addition to Hadrian’s design to let the visitors of the temple be in direct contact with the heavens. The total dome has a diameter of 44.4 metres and is the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world. The diameter is noteworthy as it is the same as the height from the floor to the oculus. At the edges, the dome is over seven metres thick, made of heavy types of rock. Near the oculus, the thickness of the dome is only 1.2 metres, made mostly of light pumice. Originally, the ceiling of the Pantheon was clad with bronze. However, that was melted down under pope Urban VIII and – according to rumor – used by Bernini to create the baldachin above Peter’s grave (in St. Peter’s Basilica). This turned out to be untrue, as Bernini did not trust the alloy.
Piazza Navona
History of Piazza Navona
Piazza Navona is one of the most beautiful and famous squares in the centre of Rome. In 86 CE, emperor Domitian commissioned this square with its unique, elongated shape. This shape is the result of its original function as the stadium for athletics competitions (Circus Agonalis) with stands for 20,000 spectators. Pope Innocent even organised so-called ‘water games’ during the hot summer months, for which the whole square was put under water. After the fall of the Roman Empire, houses were built where the stands used to be, but the long athletics field remained free of buildings and would later become Piazza Navona.
Piazza Navona fountains and sights
A number of unique buildings was added to the square in the 17th century. For instance, pope Innocent X commissioned the construction of the church Sant’Agnese in Agone, a palace, and he commissioned Bernini to build the fountain ‘La Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi’ (The Fountain of the Four Rivers, the four statues representing the Donau, Ganges, Nile and Rio de la Plata). The 16-metre high obelisk of the fountain originally came from the Circus of Maxentius located on the Via Appia.
Piazza NavonaLa Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi and the church Sant-Agnese in Agone
In addition to this fountain, the square also has two smaller fountains by Giacomo della Porta, an apprentice of Michelangelo. They are called the Fontana del Moro (the Fountain of the Moor) and the Fontana del Nettuno (Fountain of Neptune).
Several excavations were made five metres below street level of the original Stadio di Domiziano; you can visit these excavations at the Piazza Navona. The excavations are open to the public every day from 10 am to 7 pm and a ticket is 8.50 €. An audio guide tour takes 40 minutes. More info.
Nowadays, the Palazzo Braschi, the palace located on the square, is home to the Museo di Roma. It tells the history of Rome throughout the centuries using countless paintings, engravings and other ancient works of art. The museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 19:00 and a ticket costs 8 €. More info.
Nowadays, it has become a vibrant square with countless cafés, terraces, and street performers and portrait artists. Are you visiting Rome around Christmas? Be sure to visit this square as it will have been transformed into a large Christmas market.
Piazza di Spagna
The Spanish Steps of Rome
The ‘Spanish steps’ in Rome, built in Rococo style between 1723 and 1726, are the steps that lead from the Piazza di Spagna square to the French monastery church Trinita dei Monti (built between 1502–1587). There are 135 steps and three different terraces, referring to the Holy Trinity (the Trinità). The top of the stairs near the Egyptian obelisk offers a beautiful view, albeit one shared with throngs of other tourists. The name can be a bit confusing, as construction of the steps was actually commissioned by the French (Louis XII). In the 17th century, the Spanish embassy was located on the square – ‘Piazza di Spagna’ – at the base of the stairs, hence the name ‘Spanish Steps’. The official name is therefore not Spanish steps, but Scalinata della Trinità dei Monti.
Fontana della Barcaccia
On this Piazza di Spagna, you can also find a fountain by Pietro Bernini (father of the famous Gian Lorenzo Bernini), called ‘Fontana della Barcaccia’. This literally means ‘Fountain of the ugly boat’. This does not refer to the sculpture being ugly, but to the story that the river Tiber flooded in 1598 and stranded the ugly little boat on this spot. That was Bernini’s inspiration. The not very impressive water jets of the fountain are the result of insufficient water pressure from the aqueduct that supplies it. If the French had had their way, there would have also been a large statue of the French king Louis XII near the steps. But the pope at the time would not allow that, leading to construction being delayed. Nowadays, the area surrounding Piazza di Spagna is a luxurious shopping area, with the street Via Condotti being the highlight.
Campo de’ Fiori in Rome
The Campo de’Fiori is a square with the most famous market in the old center of Rome. In the evening it is very lively and cozy around Campo de’Fiori with all the bars near this square.
Campo de’ Fiori
Literally translated, Campo de ‘Fiori means ‘field of flowers’, a name derived from the Middle Ages when the area was still a meadow full of flowers. It is a misunderstanding that the name of the rectangular square is derived from the flower market that frequently takes place here. The square is very lively and colorful in the morning because of the daily fresh market with flowers, fruit, herbs and vegetables (monday to saturday). In the evening (especially by tourists) there is a lot of drinking on the terraces and in the bars around the lively square. The square is not far from the famous Piazza Navona, a square which in my opinion is much more worth a visit than this overrated Camp de ‘Fiori.
Giordano Bruno statue
Executions used to be held at Campo de ‘Fiori. For example, in 1600 philosopher Giordano Bruno was burned alive for heresy. Exactly on the site of his death is now a statue from 1889, in which he faces the Vatican (he was considered a martyr for the freedom of thought). The inscription on the base reads: – A BRUNO – IL SECOLO DA LUI DIVINATO – QUI DOVE IL ROGO ARSE – (“For Bruno – the century he predicted – here where the fire was burning”). Special fact about this square is that it is the only square in the center of Rome without a church.
Piazza del Popolo
One of Rome’s most famous squares
Around the oval Piazza del Popolo, one of Rome’s most famous squares, are many interesting sights, such as the twin churches, the obelisk and the city gate.
People’s Square?
Piazza del Popolo is a very well-known square in Rome. In Italian the name means ‘People’s Square’, but the name is actually derived from the poplars that surrounded the oval square. The original function of the neo-classical square, which was designed between 1811 and 1822, was welcoming visitors and pilgrims who entered Rome from the north over the Via Flaminia.
Sights around the square Plaza del Popolo
Two unique buildings on the square are the almost identical baroque churches Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in Montesanto. They lie opposite each other, separated by the Via del Corso.
On the other side of the square is the Basilica Santa Maria del Popolo. The main attraction of this church are the 12 side chapels, such as the Cerasi chapel with paintings by Caravattio; the ‘conversion of Paul’ and the ‘crucifixion of Peter’. The Chigi chapel with mosaics representing creation were designed by Raphael.
The twin churches at Piazza del Popolo Basilica Santa Maria del PopoloThe Santa Maria del Popolo
The city gate of the Aurelian Walls lies next to the church, the ‘Porta del Popolo’. The city gate was built in 1561 and designed by architect Nanni di Baccio Bigio. The inside of the gate was later decorated further by Bernini to celebrate the visit of the Swedish queen Christina.
A fountain was built into the side walls on both sides of the square. The Fontana del Nettuno shows Neptune accompanied by tritons. The Fontana della dea di Roma focuses on the goddess of Rome. At its base stands the statue of Remus and Romulus (the founders of Rome) suckling at the wolf’s teats.
Chapel of Santa Maria del Popolo
One of the most remarkable sights on the square of Piazza del Popolo is the 36-metre high Egyptian obelisk. The obelisk from 1300 BCE originally came from the Sun Temple of Heliopolis and was then taken to Rome by emperor Augustus to be displayed at the Circus Maximus. The obelisk was restored in 1589 and moved to this square by order of pope Sixtus V.
You can climb Pincio hill using the steps. Once at the top, the balcony of the Piazza Napoleone offers a magnificent view of the square and Rome. A short walk from there, you can find Rome’s largest public park, ‘Villa Borghese’.
Trastevere in Rome
Visit the most fun popular neighborhood of Rome
On the opposite bank of the Tiber lies the most fun and picturesque popular neighbourhood of Rome. It is a perfect area to wander through the maze of narrow streets and for a hotel in Rome. At night it is Rome’s liveliest neighbourhood.
The Trastevere neighbourhood
Located on the opposite bank of the river Tiber, south of the Vatican, is the picturesque neighbourhood Trastevere. The name Trastevere is derived from Latin, trans Tiberium; ‘beyond the Tiber’. This old working-class neighbourhood with its narrow alleyways and medieval houses is a particularly lively affair at night – thanks to the many tourists – with lots of restaurants, trattorias and pizzerias. Visit this truly Italian neighbourhood of Rome for a lovely stroll or relax on one of the many café terraces.
As far back as the days of emperor Augustus, Trastevere has been one of the city’s 14 districts, and it was also walled. Several important Romans built villas in this neighbourhood, including Julius Caesar. The charming ambience of the neighbourhood with its maze of many narrow and winding streets comes from medieval times.
TrastevereThe popular neighbourhood of Trastevere
What to see in Trastevere Rome?
The main attraction of the neighbourhood is simply the Italian atmosphere you can experience in this old working-class neighbourhood. Explore the narrow streets of Trastevere and marvel at the many authentic details. A number of unique attractions are:
Piazzi di Santa Maria in Trastevere is the beating heart of the neighbourhood. This square with the church of the same name and a fountain is a meeting place for the trasteverini. At night the area around this square is the main entertainment area in Rome.
The Basilica Santa Maria in Trastevere: This basilica is the oldest Marian church in Rome and the main attraction of the neighbourhood. After several restorations, the basilica has retained its medieval character, in part thanks to the many authentic mosaics.
Every Sunday morning until 2 pm, Rome’s most popular flea market is held at the Porta Portese, around the streets Via Portuense and Via Ippolito Nievo. It sells everything from antiques to clothing.
Villa Farnesina: A lovely 16th-century mansion with works by Raphael and Peruzzi surrounded by symmetrical gardens. The mansion looks fairly modest from the outside, but is wonderfully decorated on the inside in Renaissance style. The villa is one the gems of Rome that is not yet overrun by tourists. Address: Via della Lungara 230. The villa is open to the public from Monday to Saturday from 9 to 14 and every second Sunday of the month, admission 9 euros. More info.
Basilica Santa Cecilia
The Basilica of Santa Cecilia in Trastevere: The other basilica, dedicated to Saint Cecilia, patron saint of music, is one of the oldest churches in Rome. Here you can find 13th-century frescos by Pietro Cavallini.
Colle del Gianicolo
This hill is located next to the neighbourhood of Trastevere and if you have the time and energy, the tough hike up the hill is worth the effort for the great view of Rome you will have. At the foot of the hill, you will find the Fontana dell’Acqua Paola; this beautiful fountain played an important role in the film ‘La Grande Bellezza’. Once you reach the top of the hill, you will find a park with the statue of freedom fighter Giuseppe Garibaldi on horse-back, where a cannon is fired at noon every day. You can then descent the hill on the other side, which will take you in the direction of the Vatican.
Circus Maximus in Rome
The remains of the largest stadium in ancient Rome
The site has a small demarcated area with excavations and an information stand. You can visit it as an exhibition for a small entrance fee.
Circus Maximus (‘Circo Massimo’)
Circus Maximus was the largest chariot stadium in ancient Rome. The 600 meter long stadium was located between the Palatine and Aventine hill and could accommodate as many as 150,000 spectators. The first construction of Circus Maximus dates back to the 6th century BC, after which several emperors had the stadium expanded or rebuilt after major fires.
Little is left of the old stadium; you will find a large field in which the shape is still recognizable and a few small ruins. The Circus Maximus was in use until 549 AD. After the decay, the stands were demolished, so that the stones could be used for new churches and palaces. In the 20th century, the site was already full of many industrial buildings, but Mussolini demolished them again because he wanted to use the site for large public events.
For many tourists, Circus Maximus is not spectacular to visit, but if you are close by it is a historic place where you can get an impression (with some imagination) of the huge Circus Maximus (it was much larger than the Colosseum). Now there is only a small part of the southeast stand left, a few arcades and the contours are clearly visible on the large grassy area. The two large obelisks that used to be on the site have been moved; Augustus’ obelisk now stands in Piazza del Popolo and that of Constans II next to the Basilica of St John Lateran.
Various activities took place in the Circus Maximus stadium at the time, the most famous being the horse drawn cart competitions. Mostly ridden by slaves who could fight for their freedom by winning the race. Other activities included the simulation of famous battles conducted by young Roman aristocrats, gladiator fights and athletic competitions.
The Pincio terrace and promenade
In the afternoon towards sunset, Rome has an unforgettable appearance, particularly from the Terrace of the Pincio, a grandiose public park created by Giuseppe Valadier (1834) and urban walk citizens love.
Below the Terrace, is the spacious Piazza del Popolo, looking like an imposing and lively theater. Beyond the balustrade, the city stretches: the majestic dome of San Pietro dominates the horizon, Monte Mario is on the right, the Quirinale Hill is on the left. In the distance, high on the Janiculum hill, you can guess the equestrian monument of Giuseppe Garibaldi. In the middle, architecturally well defined, the ancient 16th-century buildings stand out.
The visit continues towards Piazza di Spagna, where you can enjoy the panoramic elevations in front of Villa Medici near the cup fountain, also known as the Vasca del Pincio, and the Spanish steps of Trinità dei Monti, a magnificent baroque scenography by Francesco De Sanctis (1723-26).
You can access the Pincio promenade: from the ramps of Piazza del Popolo; from Viale di Villa Medici that connects the terrace to the Church and the steps of Trinità dei Monti; from Viale delle Magnolie; from the flyover on the Muro Torto that connects it to Villa Borghese from 1908.
The wide promenades of the park were intended for carriages passing. The only pedestrian access is from Viale delle Magnolie. The majestic entrance to the Pincio is from Piazza del Popolo, a scenographic backdrop with three perspectives on the slopes of the hill. These are connected by small stairway ramps and by the winding and suggestive Via Gabriele D’Annunzio, which, delimited by century-old trees and embellished by fountains, climbs up the slopes of the Pincio.
The first perspective (1830) consists of three niches. In the center, an ancient statue represents Igea, the goddess of health. The second perspective is constituted by the bas-relief depicting the Fame that crowns the Genes of the arts and commerce, below which there is a marble seat with two winged lions. The third perspective, on which the Belvedere terrace rests, consists of a covered loggia with three arches that insists on a building with three niches. Here, in 1936, inspired by Valadier Raffaele De Vico created a Nymphaeum as a fountain for the Virgin Water. On this occasion, the statue of Vittorio Emanuele who had been there since 1873 was moved.
You can access the loggia from the lateral stairway ramps. Close to the first hairpin, between the first and the second perspective, there is a small oval rustic cliff fountain. An ancient statue leans on it. It represents Dionysius or Hermaphrodite because, on the female body, there was the head of a Greek god. It was removed in 1970.
The current plan of the fountain is by Raffaele De Vico, who built it in 1936. If you continue climbing, you will meet the Convent of Santa Rita and a fountain with an ancient red granite tank, dating back to the II-III century. It has an oval shape with a lion from which the water flows, inserted in a circular basin.
In a small open space at the end of Viale del Pincio, you can find the bronze memorial, dedicated to the brothers Enrico and Giovanni Cairoli (1883) who died in Villa Glori in 1867. Then, you can reach Piazzale Napoleone I from which Belvedere, you can enjoy an incredible panorama of the city. The parade of the eminent men, a series of 229 commemorative busts installed here starting from 1849, starts here.
Behind the belvedere, a wide-open space hosts a small statue of Raffaello Sanzio (1838). On-axis with the square, instead, a circular fountain displays a little Moses in the waters of the Nile (1868).
fter, you find Viale dell’Orologio and the water clock, which mechanism is associated with the Dominican Giovanni Battista Embriago. This hydro-chronometer stands in the center of a pond, surrounded by an iron gate, from 1873.
Go back to the square and take Viale del Belvedere on the right. It ends in an arboreal exedra where you can find the bust of Giuseppe Valadier. Next, you come across the statue of Aesculapius made by a body dating back to the 5th century and a head probably dating back to the 4th century.
At the end of the street, there is a statue of Cybele, probably dating back to the Antoninian period. It stood inside Palazzo dei Conservatori on the Capitoline Hill, together with the statues of Polymnia and Abundance, today in front of the Villa Medici entrance. In 1846, these three statues moved to the Pincio. The monument to Enrico Toti dates back to 1922.
At the end of Viale dell’Orologio, a building with two elevators created in 1926, allows you to go up from the tram stop below. Viale dell’Obelisco is still mostly organized according to the original Valadier project, in which he merged the Italian and the romantic English gardens.
In the middle of the road, there is the obelisk emperor Hadrian dedicated to Antinoo. Found near Porta Maggiore, it was transported and placed in the Pincio in 1822 at the behest of Pius VII. This whole area is organized according to the Casina Valadier, built by Giuseppe Valadier in 1813, who renovated the existing Della Rota casino into a café, making it one of the focal points of the walk.
The history of the Pincio
Once Colle dei Giardini, the Pincio promenade, on the homonymous hill, was already home to gardens during the Roman times. Its modern name derives from the Gens Pinciana, who came afterward. Among the Horti del Pincio, the Lucullus ones were particularly noteworthy. He was the first to build terraced gardens in this area.
During the 5th century AD, the Pinciano, a magnificent imperial palace, was built on this hill. The walk dates between 1810 and 1908. In 1814, the Napoleonic empire dissolved, but the works on the Pincio Hill started, according to the project by the French architect Berthault. They continued under the restored papal government, directed by Valadier.
Orange Garden or Savello Park
The Savello Park or Orange Garden stands on the Aventine hill, in the area of the ancient fortress built by the Savelli family towards the end of the 13th century at the church of Santa Sabina; the fortress was built on a pre-existing 10th century castle belonging to the Crescenzi.
The large medieval walls of the fortress now surround the Park or Orange Garden, a small rectangular garden very popular because from the belvedere overlooking the river you can enjoy a splendid view of Rome from the bend of the Tiber to St. Peter’s Basilica.
The trees that give it its name were planted in memory of San Domenico, who founded the convent right here in the thirteenth century: the orange at which the saint preached is kept in the nearby cloister of S. Sabina and is still visible through a hole in the wall of the church porch.
The park, characterized by a symmetrical layout with a median avenue aligned with the belvedere, was built in 1932 on a project by the architect Raffaele De Vico, who enhanced the space enclosed between the ancient walls. In the enclosure wall, on the side opposite the side wall and the apse of Santa Sabina, the traces of the towers and the drawbridge of the castle are clearly recognizable.
The walls bear the signs of a subsequent refurbishment of the area, carried out at the end of the sixteenth century by the architect Domenico Fontana on behalf of Sixtus V. In addition to the walls, the thirteenth-century castle and its subsequent extensions only remain a few granaries and warehouses underground, while the building was almost completely demolished in 1613.
Leaving the Orange Garden and turning right, you reach Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta, designed by the famous engraver Giovan Battista Piranesi in 1765. From the lock of the door that leads to the Villa dei Cavalieri, you can see Saint Peter’s dome, framed by the garden hedges.
The Mouth of Truth (La Bocca della Verità)
In the portico of the Paleochristian church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, at the foot of the Aventine hills, a Roman statue is conserved that has attracted the attention and curiosity of tourists from all over the world. It is the “Bocca della Verità”, which in English means the Mouth of Truth, an ancient stone mask from the Classical period that represents a river god with an open mouth, wide eyes and a flowing mane of hair.
The reason for its unshakeable fame is a rather macabre legend associated with the mask since ancient times. If a liar puts their hand inside its mouth, they will lose it.
This legend probably originates from Roman times. It is said that the rich wife of a Roman noble was accused of adultery. The woman denied the accusations, but her husband wanted to put her to the test by making her hand inside the stone mouth.
Knowing perfectly well that she was lying, the woman used a very clever strategy. In front of a group of curious bystanders who had gathered around the Mouth of Truth, the man who was actually her lover embraced her and kissed her. She pretended that she didn’t know him and accused him of being a madman and the crowd chased him away.
When she put her hand into the mouth, the woman declared that she had never kissed any other man apart from her husband and the poor madman who had just kissed her. In this way she was certain that she hadn’t lied and her hand was saved. The betrayed husband saved her honour, but the Mouth of Truth lost its credibility and it is said that since that day it no longer carried out its function as a right and unappeasable judge.
The mask is so famous that even Hollywood honoured it in a film about the city called Roman Holiday. In one of the most memorable scenes, Gregory Peck, in front of a terrified Audrey Hepburn, daringly challenges the mask by putting his hand inside its mouth.
Even today, this ancient mask is the cause of queues of tourists who line up outside the beautiful Paleochristian church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin. The thrill of the risk is evidently too strong and you honestly can’t resist putting your hand inside this harmless, but unsettling stone face and hope for the best!
The National Museum of Saint Angel Castle
In the district of St. Peter’s, at one end of the Ponte Sant’Angelo bridge, on the right bank of the Tiber, we find the imposing Castel Sant’Angelo.
The structure was originally a mausoleum. It had probably been commissioned and built by Hadrian as a tomb for himself and for his successors. The work was initially undertaken by the architect, Demetrianus, around the year 123. It was completed by Antoninus Pius a year after the Emperor’s death. Since 1925, the structure has hosted the Museo Nazionale di Castel S. Angelo and its historical and arts collections, including relics and other objects of interest regarding the Italian Army, in a monumental setting restored for this purpose. The complex history of this monument, with its many additions and extensions, can be broken down into three principal periods. These periods are represented by the Ancient Roman remains of the imperial mausoleum, by the fortified castle, and by the Papal apartments.
These structures host the varied range of exhibits, including sculptures, paintings, works in marble, arms, and furniture and objects acquired from various sources, and in part also recovered during excavation of the spiral ramp of the mausoleum, or transferred from the museums, Museo Nazionale Romano delle Terme di Diocleziano, or the former Museo Artistico Industriale. Some exhibits were purchased from the market for antiquaries or were acquired following the shows set up on the occasion of the universal exhibition, or Esposizione Universale, of 1911. At certain times of the year, the famous “Passetto di Borgo” or “er Corridore” (the corridor) – the fortified and elevated passage on the Mura Vaticane (Vatican walls), linking the Vatican to Castel Sant’Angelo – is open to visitors.
With this corridor, leading directly to the castle from the Palaces of the Vatican, Popes were provided with an escape route to the fortress in times of particular unrest. The fortified structure also permitted control of the surrounding district. The strategic importance of the “Passetto” was revealed during the darkest, most mysterious and painful moments of the history of Rome and of the Church itself. Alexander VI Borgia used it in 1494, retreating to the Castello when Rome was overrun by the militias of Charles VIII of France. In 1527, Clement VII Medici (1523-1534) used the passageway to reach the Castello during the Sack of Rome at the hands of the Landsknecht mercenary pikemen under Charles VIII. The passageway’s significance, when its function as a means of defence came to an end at the close of the sixteenth century, then declined. CURIOSITY: In 1527, Pope Clement VII grew a beard, in mourning for Rome, which had been sacked. There are those who say that he grew his beard as a disguise, to facilitate his escape.
All the Popes following Clement VII were bearded, up to the time of Paul V.
The oldest road of Rome
‘Via Appia Antica’
The Via Appia Antica or Appian Way is one of the oldest roads of Rome and served as an important access road into the city. Originally, the road ran all the way to Brundisium, present-day Brindisi in the heel of Italy. The cobbled road was named after consul Appius Claudius Caecus who commissioned its construction in 312 BCE. The main goal back then was to move troops more quickly during the Second Samnite War, but also to facilitate day-to-day transport of goods between Rome and Campania.
The paved stone road is nicknamed ‘regina viarium’; queen of the roads. That is because of how important the road was, but also because of the beauty of the landscape the Via Appia traverses. Part of the road (starting at the Cecelia Metella funerary monument) still has the old paving stones that clearly show the wear of the carriage tracks. The Via Appia Antica has an almost romantic feel with the green cypresses and many ruins that line the cobblestone way.
- Via AppiaVia Appia, the oldest Roman road in Rome
- Via Appia AnticaStart of Via Appia at Porta San Sebastiano
- Sights & Catacombs around the Appian Way Rome
- During a trip along the Appia Way, you can come across the following interesting sights:
In Rome, the Via Appia starts at the Porta San Sebastiano. The first milestone can be seen to your right, now part of a wall. These milestones do not just mention the distances and destinations, but also the main person who ordered its construction.
A little further and you will see the church ‘Domine Quo Vadis’.
Tradition has it that Jesus once met Peter here. Peter was fleeing Rome at the time, but returned after he met with Jesus. The church even has a stone that is purported to hold Jesus’ footprint.
After that you will come across a number of catacombes and tombs. Because it was forbidden to bury the dead within the city walls in Roman times, several burial sites were built along the main roads. One of these subterranean burial sites (catacombs of San Callisto) can be visited with a tour; it holds over 170,000 graves. Another well-known catacomb is that of Saint Sebastian, which can be reached through the church Basilica di San Sebastiano. This is one of the seven important pilgrimage churches of Rome.